In Naples, Christmas is serious business. The sacred and the profane mix in a unique way, as ancient traditions blend with current events and modern trends. Plus, the food is absolutely divine.
If you visit Naples at Christmas, you'll find a city glittering with sparkling lights, traditional nativity scenes, and a festive atmosphere throughout the main streets, public squares and cobblestone lanes. Whether you're looking for local history and folklore, a shop-til-you-drop experience, a sacred religious atmosphere, or unforgettable culinary experiences, you won't be disappointed. Even a simple walk in the center of Naples will immediately put you in the Christmas spirit.
Here's a detailed guide to the Christmas events and experiences we recommend when spending your Christmas holidays in Naples.
Neapolitan nativity scene
The most heartfelt and important Neapolitan Christmas tradition is that of the nativity scene: ‘o presepio, as it's called in Naples. As you wander the city streets and visit any church in the historic center, you'll quickly discover how important this tradition is to the Neapolitans. And if you want to go to the heart of it all for a full immersion in this ancient art, head to the most iconic street for nativity scenes: San Gregorio Armeno.
San Gregorio Armeno: the street of nativity scenes
San Gregorio Armeno is the street of nativity scenes par excellence, famous throughout the world for its artisan workshops. Here you can admire unique handmade nativity scenes, from classic figurines to those inspired by contemporary characters.
Walking among the stalls, you can find every type of character and decoration, from angels to pizza chefs, as well as ironic figurines that portray famous people and current events.
Although the shops of San Gregorio are open all year round, you'll find the most vibrant atmosphere during the Christmas season.
Our insider tip: Several thousand people will have the same desire as you to admire and buy the traditional shepherds of the Neapolitan nativity scene. San Gregorio Armeno and the other nearby streets are taken by storm during the Christmas holidays. There's no real way to avoid the crowds, but we strongly recommend going early in the morning and avoiding the weekend and holidays.
Living nativity scene
The living nativity scene is the "theatrical" version of the Neapolitan nativity scene, in which actors in costumes portray the Nativity and scenes of daily life. Several small towns around Naples and throughout the region of Campania offer living nativity scenes. The ones in Casarlano and Gragnano, on the Sorrento Peninsula, are particularly worth checking out.
Christmas markets
During the holidays, Naples also hosts traditional Christmas markets that offer local artisan products, Christmas decorations, and culinary specialties.
The most famous Christmas markets in Naples are held at the Pietrarsa National Railway Museum in the town of Portici. Not only is this market in a splendid location, it also offers entertainment for children, shows, and events. A ticket is required for entry and you can purchase it online. In 2024, the Pietrarsa markets will be open from November 30 to January 6.
Other stalls are set up in practically all the neighborhoods of the city, from the historic center to the Vomero district. The Piazza Dante Market is a Naples Christmas classic, with stalls selling handmade objects and local specialties, while the Castel dell'Ovo market combines Christmas shopping in a breathtaking setting overlooking the sea.
If you have a car, you can visit other famous Christmas markets in Campania, such as those at Castello di Limatola and Apice, both in the Benevento area.
Theatre and concerts
The cultural scene in Naples is always vibrant, but it comes alive even more during the Christmas period with concerts, shows, and theatrical performances. Here are a few of our recommendations.
Ballet and music in the most beautiful theater in the world
The most iconic theatre in Naples is Teatro San Carlo. For the holidays, this wonderful eighteenth-century opera house presents classic ballet performances such as The Nutcracker as well as traditional Christmas concerts. You could easily plan to attend one of these shows between a guided tour and a shopping session. Tickets sell out fairly quickly, so make sure you buy yours in advance. If you're looking to stretch your budget, check for matinee performances.
Christmas concerts and shows are also offered in many other theaters throughout the city. The historic Teatro del Bellini theater has a specific program for families with children, which at Christmas usually includes themed shows, Christmas music, or circus acts.
Sacred music
The historic center of Naples is full of churches from different eras. During the holidays many of them offer free or low-cost classical and choral music concerts. We particularly recommend the Monastery of Santa Chiara, the Church of San Lorenzo Maggiore, and the Basilica of San Domenico Maggiore, all of which are also beautiful to visit.
Things to do in Naples at Christmas
Make sure you visit the historic center of Naples, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995. With the festive atmosphere of the Christmas holidays it becomes even more enchanting. Despite the crowds, the historic center will delight those in search of spirituality as well as visitors looking for festive Christmas lights, decorative shop windows, and lots of holiday magic and fun.
We recommend a guided tour to discover the historic street Spaccanapoli and to visit the cathedral with the relics of San Gennaro as well as the other churches and buildings in the historic center.
Book a guided tour of the center of Naples
There are several castles in the city, such as Castel dell'Ovo and Maschio Angioino. During the Christmas holidays they are lit up with projections and illuminated installations that make them even more charming.
If it rains, or if the cold becomes too harsh, you can duck into one of the city's many museums such as the National Archaeological Museum or the Capodimonte Palace. Other inviting options for spending a few hours indoors include the catacombs or the various Naples Underground itineraries.
Visit the surrounding area
Naples' mild climate in the winter is perfect for exploring the surrounding area without the scorching summer heat.
Take advantage of the lingering pleasant temperatures to visit outdoor sites such as the archaeological excavations of Herculaneum and Pompeii, or plan an excursion to discover the crater of Vesuvius. If you're an ancient history buff, make sure you visit the Phlegraean Fields area, not too far from the center of Naples.
The Royal Palace of Caserta is also an ideal destination to visit in the winter months, when it holds events and concerts.
There are also regular sea crossings available in the winter if you want to travel to the islands of the Gulf of Naples. A getaway to the island of Ischia is highly recommended for those who love thermal water spas and wellness treatments.
If you want to visit the Amalfi Coast, we recommend booking a private transfer.
Dining in Naples during the holiday season
Naples has a famed culinary culture that's enjoyed all over the world. During the Christmas holiday season, the local culinary culture is enhanced by rich and tasty dishes with something for everyone.
Christmas Eve dinner
The traditional Christmas Eve dinner in Naples is usually fish based. You can find dishes such as spaghetti with clams, fried salt cod, and mixed fried fish in local restaurants. If you're doing your own cooking, you can buy fresh fish at the Porta Nolana market.
The Christmas Eve menu usually also includes “montanara," a fried pizza topped with meat sauce or simply with tomato, basil, and parmesan cheese. The versions filled with escarole or ricotta and cicoli (pressed fatty pork) are also very popular. You can try montanara in the many pizzerias and fry shops in the historic center, either dining in or as take away. The most important rule is that it must be eaten hot!
On tables in Naples at Christmas Eve you can also expect to see insalata di rinforzo, a hearty salad made with cauliflower, olives, papacelle (pickled peppers) and anchovies, all of which symbolize abundance.
Christmas lunch
Christmas lunch is equally important, and includes an absolute must called minestra maritata (a traditional soup made with vegetables and meat), as well as fried or roasted capitone (eel) and meat-based first courses.
Traditional desserts
Make sure you also try the delicious Neapolitan Christmas desserts at the end of your meal, at breakfast, or as a snack. These traditional sweets are prepared with dried fruit, honey, candied fruit, ricotta, and chocolate. Some of the most popular choices are roccocò, cassatine, and struffoli, all of which are available at Christmas markets and in pastry shops as well as bars and supermarkets during the Christmas holidays.
New Year's Eve in Naples
Neapolitans ring in the New Year in Piazza del Plebiscito, enjoying live music while waiting for the countdown to midnight. After the traditional New Year's toast, dancing in the square continues until dawn.
The seashore is also a wonderful place to celebrate the arrival of the New Year, with fireworks over the sea glittering against the backdrop of Vesuvius, Capri, and Sorrento.
Neapolitans have always been very passionate about fireworks and are known to get a little carried away by the New Year's Eve celebrations. If you find yourself on the street at midnight, be aware of your surroundings when it comes to firecrackers and fireworks. If you're traveling with children, make sure they avoid touching and kicking debris and unexploded fireworks.
Naples at Christmas: practical tips
Naples has become a very popular destination in recent years, especially during the holidays. We recommend you book your stay in advance in order to have the widest selection and best rates.
How to get there
The most convenient way to reach Naples from cities such as Rome, Florence, and Milan is by high-speed train, which has frequent and rapid connections. To get the most economical rates, book in advance so you can take advantage of special discounts and promotions.
If you prefer to fly, Naples Capodichino airport offers direct connections to many cities in Italy and Europe.
Transport
Getting around Naples can be complicated, especially when traffic increases during the Christmas holidays. Parking in the center is difficult and very expensive. We recommend you use public transport, in particular Metro 1 and the funiculars.
Accommodations
Since Christmas is a time when lots of tourists visit the city, make sure you book your accommodations in advance. The best areas to stay in are the historic center, the Spanish Quarter, or Vomero, all of which allow you to easily reach the most popular attractions on foot or with public transportation.
Tips for avoiding the crowds
We recommend visiting the main attractions in the early morning. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends and holidays. Book your restaurant in advance and make your reservations for earlier in the evening in order to avoid the crowds.
Explore neighborhoods less frequented by tourists such as Rione Sanità and the hilly areas of Posillipo and Vomero.